Hacking the Lyra

For this project I used a new-to-me approach and decided to try and re-create a ready-to-wear top. I decided I wanted to try some sort of hack of the Tilly and the Buttons Lyra because I liked the collar and button front opening, and I knew I wanted to use the navy gingham from Tabitha’s House so I started looking at gingham shirt inspiration on Pinterest. Below is the shirt I decided to try and recreate. One of my favourite details on this shirt are the ties on the sleeves because I think this is quite an unusual detail, but it looks really pretty.

Image credit: ASOS

Here are some photos of my finished Lyra shirt! I’m really pleased with how it’s turned out because I think it looks pretty similar to the inspiration image and I can imagine getting lots of use out of it. I also like how I could style it in different ways such as open with a t-shirt underneath and with different trousers or skirts. I think it would also look great under dungarees!

If you want to recreate this style here are the adjustments you need to make to the pattern pieces.

1) Firstly, lengthen the front and back bodice pieces to your desired length – I had previously made a Lyra so I put this on to see where the bodice came to on me and how much longer I needed it to be. I ended up adding about 15cm but I would advise measuring the original pattern pieces and checking how much you want to add to create the right length for you. Make sure to lengthen both the front and back by the same amount and I simply followed the angle of the side seam and centre front/back lines down further.

2) Secondly, lengthen the button placket, adding the same amount of length as you added to the bodice pieces.

3) Now you need to make a pattern piece for a channel for the sleeves. Decide how high up you want the channel to fall on your sleeve and measure the sleeve width at this point. Then draw a rectangle with this width and a depth of 2 cm plus 1cm seam allowance either side.

4) Then the last step of this stage is to create a pattern piece for the ties. Use your wrist circumference and the length you would need for whatever size bow you would like as a guide for how long this should be. For a 1cm wide tie, the width should be 4cm (2cm seam allowance and 2cm folded in half for the actual tie). And that’s it! Those are all the pattern adjustments you need to make!

Cutting out the Lyra

As for the construction, follow the original Lyra instructions but without adding the skirt and there are just a few extra steps to inserting the sleeves. Before attaching the sleeves to the bodice you need to attach the channels for the ties and sew two button holes at the centre of each sleeve pieces. Whilst the sleeves are flat, mark the two opening for the ties (about 1.5cm apart) in the centre of the sleeve, at whatever point you want the ties to fall at. Then sew two buttonholes at these points. Repeat for the second sleeve. Then sew the gathering stitches across the sleeve head and sew the underarm seam. Next sew the short ends of the channel together and fold in each long edge by 1cm to the wrong side.

Pin the channel to the sleeve at the height you want it to fall with wrong sides together, matching seams. Stitch about 2-3mm in from each folded edge of the channel to attach it to the sleeve. Then you can sew the sleeve onto the bodice.

Sewing on the channel

To make the ties, fold them in half right sides together and sew down the long edge with a 1cm seam allowance. Then trim the seam allowance by about 5mm and turn the ties the right way out. Now attach a safety pin to one end and feed the ties through the channels on the sleeves. To finish the ends of the ties, fold the raw edges to the inside and topstitch across. Hem the sleeves and the main body and you’re finished!